Totalán is a charming municipality located in the southwestern part of the Axarquía region, in the province of Málaga, Andalusia. Nestled between the Montes de Málaga and the Axarquía, Totalán offers a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage.
This picturesque village with whitewashed houses, narrow streets, and tranquil atmosphere, making is an ideal destination for those looking to escape the hustle and bustle of city life. The surrounding landscape is characterised by rolling hills, vineyards, and almond groves, providing stunning views and opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking and cycling.
About Totalan
The etymology of Totalan is of Arabic origin, meaning “tart”. The first documented references date back to the time of the Iberians. The Tower of Salazar, of Arabic origin, is located on a hill that overlooks and dominates the sea, serving the purpose of defending the town from coastal threats.
Towards the end of the 19th century, the town was afflicted by the phylloxera plague, which destroyed most of its vineyards. Since then, emigration has been an inevitable fact, and the population has gradually diminished. Along with the aforementioned towers, the oldest and most important building is the Parish Church of Santa Ana, dating from 1505.
A few kilometres from the town centre is the funerary structure of “El Cerro de la Corona”, which dates back to between 4000 and 3000 B.C. In its gastronomy, notable dishes include “la chanfaina” and “el gazpacho veraniego”, as well as excellent local wines.
Sights
Totalan, a quaint village nestled in the hills of the Axarquia region, is known for its chameleon statue at the entrance of the village, a peculiar symbol that welcomes visitors. Here are some of the must-visit places in Totalan:
- Torre de Salazar
This 11th-century tower, located on a hill overlooking the sea, served as a watchtower to defend the town from coastal threats. (map) - Dolmen del Cerro de la Corona
A prehistoric funerary structure dating back to between 4000 and 3000 B.C., offering a glimpse into the ancient past. (map) - Plaza de Antonio Molina
A special spot named after the famous singer and actor Antonio Molina, featuring a statue and a garden full of native plants. (map) - Jardines de la Cascada (Waterfall Gardens)
Beautiful gardens located in La Huerta, offering a tranquil setting for a leisurely stroll. (map)
Natural Environment and Hiking
Totalan is an ideal destination for nature lovers and hiking enthusiasts. The diverse landscape offers a variety of trails that cater to different levels of fitness and experience, allowing visitors to explore the picturesque countryside, rolling hills, and scenic vistas.
Here are some recommended hiking routes in Totalán:
- Playa Cala del Moral – Torre del Cantal Loop
This intermediate-level hike takes you from Playa Cala del Moral to Torre del Cantal, offering beautiful coastal views. The route is approximately 8.89 km long and takes about 2 hours and 17 minutes to complete. - Playa Cala del Moral – Playa de El Dedo Loop
Another intermediate-level hike, this route takes you from Playa Cala del Moral to Playa de El Dedo. It covers a distance of 16.6 km and takes around 4 hours and 13 minutes to complete. - Playa Los Claros – Torre Vigía de Benagalbón Loop
This hike takes you from Playa Los Claros to the Torre Vigía de Benagalbón, offering a mix of coastal and inland scenery. The route is 9.13 km long and takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes to complete. - Playa Cala del Moral – Old Train Station Loop
A shorter and easier hike, this route takes you from Playa Cala del Moral to the old train station. It covers a distance of 3.24 km and takes about 49 minutes to complete.
These hiking routes provide a wonderful opportunity to experience the natural beauty of Totalán and its surroundings. You can check for those and more routes here: https://www.komoot.com/guide/1531227/hiking-around-totalan
Part of the Raisin Route
The Ruta de la Pasa is a tourist route that traverses several white villages in the Axarquía region, including Totalán. This route is renowned for its tradition in raisin production, a unique product of Malaga with a Designation of Origin. The raisins are made from Muscat grapes, which are harvested and sun-dried using artisanal techniques that have been preserved for centuries.
Totalán serves as the gateway to the Ruta de la Pasa. Here, visitors can enjoy the natural beauty of the surroundings and learn about the drying process of the grapes in the characteristic “paseros” or raisin drying beds, which are oriented southeast to maximise sunlight exposure.
Gastronomy
Totalan’s gastronomy focus on local ingredients such as olive oil, garlic, and fresh produce. One of the most representative dishes is “chanfaina,” a hearty stew made with potatoes, olive oil, garlic, vinegar, breadcrumbs, and a variety of spices. This dish was traditionally prepared by farmers to sustain them during long working days. Other notable dishes include “gazpacho veraniego,” a refreshing cold soup perfect for hot summer days, and “cazuela de arroz,” a rice dish with prawns and mussels. The local wines, produced from the surrounding vineyards, are also a highlight of Totalán’s culinary offerings.
Fair and Festivities
One of the most significant events is the “Fiesta de la Chanfaina,” held annually at the end of November. This festival celebrates the traditional dish of chanfaina with cooking competitions, tastings, and various cultural activities. Another important event is the “Feria de Totalán,” which takes place in May and features live music, dancing, and a variety of entertainment for all ages. Additionally, the village hosts the “Festival Flamenco Enrique Castillo” in July, showcasing the best of local flamenco talent.
How to Get to Totalan
Totalan is easily accessible from Malaga and other nearby cities. If you are driving, take the A-7 motorway and exit at junction 251, then follow the MA-3202 provincial road to Totalan. The drive offers scenic views of the Andalusian countryside and takes approximately 20 minutes from Malaga. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Malaga to Totalan, with services running twice daily. The journey by bus takes around 58 minutes.